Alcohol Ink Art: Basic Tools and Materials

One of the most common questions I get asked is what materials I use. I created this list to help anyone who wants to start using alcohol inks or expand their already existing alcohol ink toolkit. These recommendations are based on my own personal experiences and preferences, but please keep in mind that what works for me may not work for everyone else. What’s important is that you explore and find what works best for you, and I hope that in creating this list, I can help you in your artistic journey.

Please note, Michelle Lynn Art is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to allow me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. With that being said, recommendations are based solely on personal opinion, preference, and experience, and this affiliation does not influence the products that I choose to recommend. It simply gives you an easier way to shop, and it gives me a small commission for my time, research, and experience.

Alcohol Inks

When you’re first learning, I recommend starting out with just a few staple colors. There are so many different ink brands and colors out there, it’s easy to get excited and over do it. As you begin learning how the inks behave and what colors blend well together, it’ll be easier to decide what colors to invest in. And don’t forget, just like any other paint, you can always mix your own colors from your existing ones! Some of my favorite ink brands include Copic, Ranger, and Brea Reese. (I wrote another article that goes more in depth about the pros and cons of different ink brands.)

One of the staples in my pieces (and one of the most common items I’m asked about) is metallic gold ink. I personally use Pinata Brass. It’s the perfect antique gold color, and it maintains its metallic shine once it’s dry. Metallic ink can be tricky, and it takes some time to get used to, but it’s definitely worth trying!

Isopropyl Alcohol

Isopropyl alcohol is used as the solvent for alcohol inks. (Think isopropyl alcohol is to alcohol inks, as water is to watercolor paints). I use isopropyl alcohol to dilute my inks, re-activate dry inks, and blend inks together. I also use it to clean my brushes and palettes. I recommend using either 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol.

Pipettes

I use pipettes to drop isopropyl alcohol onto my substrate. I also use them to help mix colors in my palette wells.

Ink Blower

I use an ink blower to help dry the inks (the one I use is actually a camera lens cleaner, although Ranger now makes one that is specifically labeled as an alcohol ink blower). It allows me to accelerate the drying process, and it helps me manipulate the inks to create interesting patterns and effects. The ink blower drys inks slower than a heat gun, so I find it easier to manipulate the inks the way I want.

Heat Gun

When I first started with alcohol inks, I feel like I used my heat gun constantly. As I’ve experimented more with alcohol inks, I have found myself using the heat gun a little less. I usually find that it dries my inks too fast, before I’m able to manipulate them the way I want. Nevertheless, the heat gun is a good way to dry your inks fast. I especially like to use it when I finish a piece and want to make sure its really dry before sealing or storing it. But just be careful — if you are working on paper, it can melt and warp the paper if you hold it in one spot for too long!

Paper

I use both Legion yupo paper and Nara synthetic paper. Legion yupo paper is available in a few different stores, and it comes in several weight options. I prefer the heavy weight, since it’s the most durable. Yupo paper will stain, so if you make a mistake, you can end up ruining your piece. Yupo paper is on the pricey side, so this can get expensive if you’re frequently throwing out mistakes.

I discovered Nara synthetic paper about a year ago, and it has quickly become my favorite. Nara is a small paper brand based in India, but you can easily buy their paper on Amazon. Their paper has a nice heavy weight, and it comes in a wide variety of sizes and shapes. My favorite quality of Nara paper is… it doesn’t stain! This has been a huge game changer for me. This allows me to re-work my pieces as many times as a I need to, and it means I never have to waste a piece of paper.

Ceramics

Ceramics are my favorite substrate to paint on. I use ceramic pieces for my coasters, trays, and jewelry. Like Nara paper, ceramics don’t stain and they can be wiped completely clean with isopropyl alcohol. Ceramics are good for beginners, because you can wipe them clean as many times as you need to, without wasting them. I purchase ceramic pieces from various different sources, but you can always find basic ceramic tiles on Amazon or any home improvement store, like Home Depot or Lowes.

Face mask

Your safety is really important when it comes to alcohol inks. Alcohol inks are toxic, and while the long term effects don’t seem to be well-studied (at least from my internet research), most alcohol ink artists seem to agree that we should take precautions. I personally use a 3M Respirator anytime I paint with alcohol inks, resin, or varnish. (Note, these masks come in different sizes, and I personally wear a small, but you should make sure you get the right size for your face.) I also try to work outside as much as possible, weather permitting. If I can’t work outside, I work by an open window with a fan. I wouldn’t recommend doing alcohol inks in the presence of children or pets either.

Gloves

As above, safety first. Due to the toxicity, its not recommended that alcohol inks come in contact with your skin. Not to mention, it will stain your hands! I use basic nitrile gloves anytime I work with alcohol inks.

Air purifier

Having an air purifier is another safety measure I’ve incorporated into my studio. The air purifier will help filter out VOCs, and I personally noticed it reduces the smell of fumes in my studio.

Varnish

For my paintings on paper, I seal my work with Kamar varnish and UV protectant spray. The Kamar varnish seals your inks, then the UV protectant prevents fading of your inks from sunlight. It’s very important that you spray your pieces with the Kamar varnish first, because if you don’t, the inks will be reactivated by the UV protectant spray and it could ruin your painting.

Resin

I seal my ceramic pieces with resin. I have always used Art Resin, and I’ve been so happy with it, I’ve never found a need to try anything else. It adds a beautiful, glassy and protective coat to my coasters, trays, and jewelry. I really love the way it brings the inks to life. A lot of people ask me if I varnish my pieces before applying resin, and I personally don’t. I’ve never had any issues with my inks bleeding or dissolving, so I don’t see the need to add any extra steps. If you experience this problem though, I would recommend spraying your work with Kamar varnish first to see if it helps.

Miscellaneous

I like to use a few paint brushes, especially to help apply gold. I always have a palette to mix colors, and you’ll want a lot of paper towels on hand. Also keep in mind, alcohol inks can stain your table, so I always work on top of a plastic table cloth, or even just a trash bag.